PEOPLE & CULTURE

However, there is another side to the gorilla success story that few visitors will ever be aware of. The gorillas were not the only inhabitants of these forests; they were home, too, to the Batwa people. This pygmy tribe is believed to be one of the oldest in Uganda, and lived a largely ancient hunter-gatherer lifestyle in these forests until they were evicted on the creation of the national park in 1991, so called “conservation refugees”. Outside of the forests, this fertile region is a densely populated patchwork of farmland; there was no land for the Batwa to move onto and they became squatters. The Batwa spoke their own language and could not communicate with other local communities. They had not attended school, could not read or write, and had no farming traditions – meaning there was little they could contribute to local farmers. On top of this, they are incredibly marginalised and even despised by other communities, who see them as backward, lazy and alcoholics. While it is true that alcohol use has increased amongst the tribe, it’s also not a surprising development for a community that has been corralled into tiny, mud shacks on borrowed land, unable to enter the forest to pursue their traditional lifestyle.

The gorillas are thriving, yes, but at huge cost to the Batwa. They had lived sustainably alongside these great apes – as well as forest elephants, antelope and many other creatures – for many centuries, and rather than evicting them, it would perhaps have been more valuable to learn from them, and to work out a more sustainable and ethical way to save the gorillas. A quarter of a century after they were removed from their land, much of the knowledge – of the plants and animals – will have been lost irretrievably.

On the edges of Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the Batwa Experience is a brilliant initiative which involves the local Batwa community in tourism. Crucially, it has collaborated with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, which means Batwa guides are now allowed to enter the park – and the forest – as part of these tours. This is the only opportunity they have to do so. Full day tours take visitors along the lower slopes of the volcanoes and into the forest to see how the Batwa used to hunt antelope using spears, how they set up animal traps, harvested honey and lit fires. It is incredible to see how the older Batwa guides seem to relax almost immediately as soon as they are back beneath the trees. There is also an opportunity to enter a sacred cave that the Batwa used to shelter in from enemies, and to enjoy traditional song and dance. It is a wonderful tour – even more so knowing the tribe’s history.

Community tourism

Uganda is a multilingual country bubbling over with culture: over 70 generally estimated languages spoken, countless customs and traditions, superb crafts and uplifting music and dance can be encountered all around the country. As tourism grows here, so too do the opportunities for local people to get involved. There are women’s craft cooperatives, weaving baskets and making pots. There are local guesthouses and lodges owned by entrepreneurial individuals or communities.

On the edges of Kibale Forest National Park, the wildlife-rich Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary is managed by a community based organisation (KAFRED – Kibale Association For Rural and Environmental Development), which runs tours, produces and promotes local crafts and offers homestays and meals with a local family. And next to Queen Elizabeth National Park, Katwe community offers tours of its fascinating salt lake, where salt is still mined today – a gruelling task in a particularly surreal landscape. In Murchison Falls National Park, we have the Mubako community that offers insights into their day to day lifestyle.  

What you can do
As well as the above, there are many more examples of community based tourism in Uganda, which ensures that your money stays in the country and reaches the people who need it most. Most tourism in Uganda takes place in its national parks with official guides – which shuts local residents and businesses out. But by looking beyond the parks, even for just a couple of days of your holiday, your money will go much further, and you’ll completely shift your opinion of Uganda as a place to see wildlife. Uganda’s people are every bit as fascinating.